Great Ones is a celebration of humans we admire — and an exploration of why they cook, not just how. While Dianna Daoheung’s professional culinary career began after a spontaneous culinary school open house, she’s now the head baker and co-founder of Black Seed Bagels. We joined her in her kitchen in Queens to chat about cooking Thai food her way, how she became the Mother of Bagels, and what she’s looking forward to cooking as she welcomes her first child.
My relationship with food definitely began with my mom. Being a first-generation American, cooking was how I learned about my culture. I can’t speak Thai, but when it comes to cooking Thai food, that’s my connection.
I can’t speak Thai, but when it comes to cooking Thai food, that’s my connection.
I definitely lean savory. In Thai cooking there aren't a lot of sweets. And I didn’t really consider baking until I decided to go to culinary school and saw how much tuition was. I thought, If I’m going to pay that much, I’m definitely going to go and do something that is unfamiliar. I always wanted to be a really well rounded chef, and most chefs I knew at the time were specifically savory, pastry, or bread. I went in thinking I was just going to focus on baking. Once I started, it was very up my alley as far as the science part goes — being patient, it was less quickfire. I really gravitated toward it.
When I first moved to New York, I was actually in advertising for four or five years. I had a mental breakdown. I was working with all these luxury brands, and I just thought, This isn’t me. What am I doing? I took a quick hiatus, and as I was walking down Broadway, there was an open house for the French Culinary Institute. I asked my friend, “Hey, want to go to this with me? There’s free food.” Once I was there I was like, Maybe I should try cooking.
Before I went to school, I asked some of my friends who were chefs if I could stage. A lot of them told me I didn’t need culinary school, but I felt like they helped me jump-start my career. I had way more confidence, and especially as a female I wanted to feel like I knew what I was doing because it was so tough back then.
It’s a lot better now. When I first opened Black Seed I really focused on using my maternal side, not being angry, and saying that it’s okay to have feelings, it’s okay to cry, it’s okay to lead with empathy and respect.
When I first opened Black Seed I really focused on using my maternal side, not being angry, and saying that it’s okay to have feelings, it’s okay to cry, it’s okay to lead with empathy and respect.
I was working as a line cook for Noah, one of the business partners at Black Seed, and he and our other business partner, Matt, were like, “Let’s open something together. There aren’t good bagel shops here.” This was 2014, and there weren’t a ton of bagel shops like now. In fact, every other day a great bagel shop was closing because rents were so high. So they tapped me knowing I was a baker. At first I was just their baker, and then they asked me to be a partner.
Cooking at home and cooking at work are two totally different things for me. People assume I must hate cooking at home, but I love it because I can make whatever I want. Whereas at work you understand it from a business perspective. I put the two in two different categories: personal and business. Personal cooking is my expression for that day. If I’m in a shitty mood I’ll cook something as simple as boxed mac and cheese to make me happy. But it’s also truly the one thing I know I’m good at. I always tell people, “You can tell me I’m ugly or not funny, but if you tell me I’m not a good cook that’s when my fists come out.” Nothing else offends me.
Personal cooking is my expression for that day.
Today I made a chicken khao soi, but it’s not the most authentic khao soi. I live in Ridgewood, Queens, and, yes, New York has a lot of Asian markets. But I'm going to do what is fastest and closest to me, so I adapted certain ingredients and simplified the dish. I also made a version that is very quick to cook because, again, I’ve got 10 Black Seed locations to run, I’m having a baby, I have two cats — I need time! I looked for flavors that are close to what my mom would use. The dish is a little different, but it’s still so nostalgic to me.
I love using my Dutchess for the khao soi — I use it all the time! I got all of my Great Jones ware a few years ago when I needed a new set of pots but was still a broke baker and wanted something I knew would be durable and looked nice. They have a nice weight to them. I literally use them every day.
I cook for my partner, but I love cooking for my friends, too, and now it’s going to shift to cooking for my family. Having a baby makes me want to cook more dishes that are from Thailand. This kid is naturally going to be American, naturally going to be a New Yorker, but I think the one way I can pass my culture on is through food.
This kid is naturally going to be American, naturally going to be a New Yorker, but I think the one way I can pass my culture on is through food.
I’m very excited to continue cooking and cooking for this baby — cooking for a new life form that hasn’t tasted anything. It’s mind-blowing to me that we will figure out what this kid likes or doesn’t like, and I’ll change my recipes to what it does like — hopefully they don’t want to eat pizza all day.
